PAMPHYLIA AND PISIDIA I

The tvvo islands mentioned by Hamilton are Can Ada and Yeşilada, the latter connected to the mainland by a causevvay. During Ottoman times Yeşilada vvas inhabited entirely by Christians, many of vvhose houses have survived, along vvith an abandoned Greek church.
We novv continue aiong Highvvay 330, \vhich takes us around the southern end of Eğirdir Gölü and then up the lake's eastern shore. After passing the village of Mahmut on the eastern shore of the lake \ve come to a Seljuk caravanserai known as the Ertokuş Hanı. The caravanserai is dated by an inscription to 1229. it is partially in ruins but stili impressive. The main entryvvay is a double one, the inner gate being flanked by tvvo small chambers. This leads into the central aisle of a large court flanked by four pairs of vaulted chambers. At the end of the court another gatevvay leads into the central aisle of the cara-vanserai's main hail, flanked by t\vo narrovver side aisles, ali three divisions covered \vith ogive-arched vaults. The outer vvalls of this hail are reinforced vvith four angular bastions for defense; these are mentioned by Hamilton in his deseription of the han, which he records in hisjournal for 28 September 1836:
Soon after len we reachcd a largc ruined building ncar the lake, called a khan. where the mountains becoming more woodcd as we advanced. approached to the \vater's edge. The northern end of the khan was built of large square stones, \vith projecıing angles and tovvers for delence. An Arabic inscription was over one of the doors. İn early days these khans in many parts of Asia served as placcs of refugc and safety from the vvander-ing nomadic tribes.
The Yuruks, a nomadic shepherd people, can stili be seen along the roads of southern Turkey, looking insi as Hamilton deseribed them on his approach to the Ertokuş Hanı, though they are no longer armed:
On this plain we met a dark and swarthy Buruquc. \vhose occupation vvas in strik-"ing contrast with his appearance: he was armcd to the teeth vvith pistol.dirk and

NORTH FROM ANTALYA 45
yataghan |a curved s\vord|, leading a camel. and spinning a coarse black thrcad from a handful of goats' hair which he held in his hand. Their black tents are made of this coarse material.and consistof long pieces of cloth.supported by three poles and stretehed out by three cords, so that they do not reach the ground, the upright part of the tent being generally made of reeds tied together. . . We also passed some strong and vvell-construcled carts, superior to any I had seen in Asia Minör.
Farther to the north, near Yalvaç, Hamilton had passed a Yuruk encampment, and the scene that hc deseribed is unehanged today, as these nomads perpetuate their vvay of life along this ancient caravan route betvveen central Anatolia and the Mediterranean coast.
About six miles from Yalobatch, quitting the river as it flows through a deep and rocky ravine to the left, \ve ascended a range of limestone hills to an elevated plain, w here we fell in wiıh a busy scene, viz. the halt of a tribe of Euruques, who had just reached the ground ready for their encampment. Each family, vvith its herd of camels and mares, and flocks of shcep and goats, took up a separate station; the vvomen vvere busy unrolling their tent-clolhs and driving in the vvooden pegs, vvhilc the camels knelt dovvn side by side vvaiting patiently to be relicved of their loads, and then strolled avvay to the neighbouring hills to graze on the dry grass and thorny shrubs; the men mounted on their horses vvere galloping about shouting aloud,and giv-ing their orders in every direetion vvith an air of great importance. Each string of five or six camels vvas alvvays preceded by an ass.
We follovv Highvvay 330 as it Icaves the shore of Eğirdir Gölü and curves inland tovvard the northeast, passing the tovvn of Geiendost. Eleven kilometers beyond Gelendost vve turn left on Highvvay 32-08, signposted for Yalvaç. After fifteen kilometers vve come to aT-junction, vvhere vve turn left on Highvvay 320 and soon come to Yalvaç, a tovvn set at an altitude of 1,100 meters on the right bank of the river knovvn in antiquity as the Anthius. Yalvaç vvill be our base for visiting ancient Antiocheia in Pisidia, vvhich is about tvvo kilometers northvvest of the tovvn. Numerous architectural fragments of the ancient city are built into the local mosques and other buildings of the tovvn, vvith a number of antiq-uities from the archacological site exhibited in the local museum.

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The city vvas probably founded by the Seleucid king Antiochus I (r. 280-261 B.C.), for \vhom it is named. it is called Antiocheia in Pisidia, or Pisidian Antioch, to distinguish it t'rom the half-dozen other cities of that name founded by Antiochus I —the most notable being Antioch on the Orontes, the Seleucid capital, now the Turkish tovvn of Antakya. After the defeat of Antiochus III at the battle of Magnesia in 189 B.C., the treaty of Apameia madc Antiocheia a free and independent city. it retaincd this stalus ııntil 39 B.C, vvhen it came under the control of the Galatian king Amyntas, and after his death in 25 B.c. it revcrted to the Romans. The Romans then established a colony here named Colonia Caesarca Antiocheia, but by the end of ıhe first century A.D. the city had reverted to its original name.
Paul visited Pisidian Antioch on his first missionary journey (ca. A.D. 47) along \vith Barnabas. Here Paul addressed the con-gregation gathercd in the synagogue on the Sabbath, his first recordcd sermon, beginning \vith these vvords: "Men of Israel and fearers of God, listen!" Paul's message aroused great inter-est among the congregation and they invited him to speak again the follovving Saturday, as recorded in Acts 13:42:
The next sabbalh almosi the whole tovvn assembled to hear the word of God. When they savv the crovvds, the Jevvs, prompted by jealousy, uscd blas-phemies and contradieted everylhing Paul said. Then Paul and Barnabas spoke out boldly. 'We had to proelaim the vvord of üod to you first, but since you havc rejected it. since you do not think yourself worthy of elernal life, vve must turn to the pagans. For this is vvhal the Lord commanded us to do \vhcn ne said:
I have made you a light for the nations,
sp that my salvalion might reach (he ends of the earth.'
İt made the pagans very happy to hear this and they ıhankcd the Lord for his message; ali who \verc destined for eternal life became believers. Thus the vvord of Ihe Lord sprcad through the vvhole countryside.
But the Jevvs vvorked upon some of the devout vvomen of the upper class-es and the leading men of the city and persuaded ıhcm to turn against Paul and Barnabas and cxpel them from their territory. So they shook the dust from their feet and vvent of!" to Iconium, but the disciples vvere fillcd vvith joy and the Holy Spiril.

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Pisidian Antioch continued to be an important city during the Byzantine period, surviving the Arab invasions and the initial Turkish raids after the Seljuk victory över the Byzantines at Manzikert in 1071. The army of the First Crusade, led by Bohemund and Tancred, stopped here in 1097 after their long march across the central Anatolian plateau.The city fınally fell to the Tıırks in the t\vclfth or thirteenth century, after vvhieh it \vas abandoned and fell into ruins, with the Turkish tovvn of Yalvaç developing near its site. Hamilton was one of the first foreign travelers to explore the site of Pisidian Antioch, which he describes in his journal for 27 Scptember 1836:
1 startcd early ıhis morning lo sce ıhe ruins. which arc about a mile and a hail' Irom Yalobatch. The sile ol" ıhe to\vn is covered with huge blocks of marble, and ıhe first ruin I saw was an oblong building consisıing of an inner and an outerwall,extending from S. E.to N. W.Thcouterwall isbuilt of rough blocks of blue semi-cryslalline limestone four feet in ıhickness, and is formed of t\vo rovvs of largc stones placed edgeways.The inner wall, vvhieh is also a parallelogram. is built of white scaglia limestone. The length. ineluding the thickness of the inner wall. is 73 paces, or about 180 feet, and ils breadth 21 paces or 60 feet. İt has been a temple or a church, perhaps each in succession. About 200 yards to the N. E. are the remains of another massivc building on the brow of the hill facing N. W.; bencath arc two arehed vaults, one of them leading into scveral subterranean chambers; above this is a Hat terrace, \viıh the foundations of other massive walls beyond. One of the most striking fcatures is the ruined aqueduct. consider-able remains of \vhich are stili standing....
Rcturning from the aqueducl lo the corner of the \vall, vvhieh appears to have been conneeted \vith it, I observed a low narro\v pavement exlcnding from il S. E. by S. into the interiorof the town. From thence ıhe ground rises lo Ihe S. E. to the top of the hill a quarter of a mile distant. vvhieh was prob¬ably the Acropolis, and ihen falls rapidly to a deep ravine on Ihe east. Near Ihe summit a curious semicircular hollovv has been excavatcd in the rocky side of the hill to the N. W., in the centre of vvhieh a large mass of solid rock tvventy feet si|uare. and hollovved out into a square chamber, has been left standing. Masscs of highly fınished marble corniccs, vvith several broken fluted columns ivvo feet eighı inehes in diameter. are scatlered about the hollovv, and on the perpendicular face of the rock a rovv of small squarc holes has been cut out ali round.aboullen feet from the ground. as if for the inscrıion of beams. İt has probably been the adytum of a temple, for ıhe

remains of a portico can be seen in front, vvith broken columns, cornices, and other fragments. Antioch vvas celebrated in its early days for the vvor-ship of Men Arcaeus. and it is not unlikely that this building may have been conneeted vvith the vvorship of that deity, perhaps the Menes of the Lydians. At the back of the Acropolis is a deep ravine, vvatered by the stream ihat flovvs through Yalobatch, probably the Anteus of antiquity. on the banks of vvhieh Antioch seems to have been situated. The remainder of the day vvas spent in copying inseriptions ... They vvere ali in Latin, vvith the exception of No. 177, on a sareophagus. I vvas fortunate to find one vvith the vvords ANTIOCHEAECAESARE; the remainder having been entirely effaced. İn turning över a large column to copy an inseription vve disturbed some curi¬ous red and black-spotted loads of the most disgusting ugliness.
The site of Pisidian Antioch vvas excavated in the years 1912-29 by archaeologists from the University of Michigan. The first monument that vve come upon is a ruined triple-arehed Corinthian propylaeum, probably dating from the refounding of the city by Augustus as a Roman colony. The relief of a Nike can stili be seen on the gate. When the American archaeologists began their vvork here they found a long inseription in Latin on the temple. This proved to be the famous Res Gestae Divi Augusti (The Achievements of the Deified Augustus), a politi-cal autobiography of the emperor vvhieh he completed on 11 May A.D. 14. The record vvas deposited vvith the vestal virgins until his death one hundred days later; then, in accordance vvith the instruetions of the Roman senate, it vvas carved on bronze tablets outside the emperor's mausoleum and inseribed on the vvalls of every temple of Augustus throughout the empire. The Res Gestae begins vvith the follovving preamble: "Subjoined is a copy made of the exploits of the deified Augustus, by vvhieh he brought the vvhole vvorld under the empire of the Roman people ..." Among the many imperial exploits recorded in the inserip¬tion is a census that Augustus ordered in the tvventieth year of his reign. This is the very census of vvhieh Luke vvrites in his Gospel, the one that led Joseph to journey vvith Mary to Bethlehem for the enrolment, vvhere she gave birth to her child. N.B. When the Christian calendar vvas first adopted it erred by seven years in setting the date of Christ's birth.

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The central square of the Roman city vvas the Augusta Platea, dedicated to Augustus; this was approached from the west via a tvvo-tiered portico, Ionic at ground level and Doric above. The square vvas bounded on its eastern side by the "curious semicir-cular hollovv" mentioned by Hamilton. This vvas the site of a temple dedicated to the deified Augustus and to the Phrygian fertility god knovvn as Men Arcaeus, as Hamilton suggested. Architectural fragments scattered around the site indicate that the temple, dated to the second quarter of the first century A.D., had a tetrastyle (four-columned) Corinthian porch and vvas dec-orated vvith tvvo sculptured friezes, one vvith bull heads.
in front of the propylaeum there vvas another square, knovvn as the Tiberia Platea, dedicated to the emperor Tiberius (r. 14-37). On the north side of the square there are the remains of a stoa vvith shops. At the southvvest corner of the square the American archaeologists unearthed the remains of a round building erected by Marcus Aurelius (r. 161-80). A short distance to the vvest of the Tiberia Platea vve see the remains of a cruciform Byzantine church. Northvvest of the square there are the ruins of a Byzantine basilica vvith a mosaic pavement; an inscription found here records the name of Optimus, vvho vvas bishop of Pisidian Antioch in the years 375-81.
Other monuments farther out from the city center include a Roman bath and a nymphaeum, as vvell as the aqueduct men¬tioned by Hamilton. Ali that remains of the theater is its cavea carved out of the slope of the hill, its seats and other parts of its structure having been carried off by the people of Yalvaç to build •their houses.The li-ttle museum in Yalvaç has antiquities ranging from the middle of the third millennium B.C. to the fourth cen¬tury A.D.,as vvell as an ethnographical section vvith exhibits from the Turkish era.
We novv continue eastvvard on Highvvay 320. After passing Ihe village of Kumdamı this takes us along the northern shore of Eğirdir Gölü. Midvvay along the shore vve pass Taşevi, vvhere there is a panoramic vievv aeross the northern expanse of the

NORTH FROM ANTALYA 51
lake, knovvn as Hayran Gölü. Hamilton deseribes this vievv in his journal for 28 September 1836:
The vievv över the lake vvas magnificent. and the vast expanse of vvater, spread out as it vvere at our feet, vvas a most grateful sight after the barren plains and hills över vvhich vve had so long been travelling. But the shape of the lake vvas very different from vvhat 1 had expected, for after contraeting to a vvidth of very little more than a mile, at a spot three miles to the vvest of the hill.it again suddenly expands.forming another large though lessexten-sive sheet of vvater, vvhich, although entirely part of the lake of Eğerdir, is called in the country Hoiran Ghieul .. .The day had been particularly fine, and the atmosphere clear, and I never remember to have vvitnessed a more glorious sunset, or more brilliant and deeper hues than refleeted from the mountains to the S. E. as I returned aeross the plain.They appeared like hills of purple. vvhile the vvestern sky glovved like a sca of gold.
After passing the lake the highvvay takes us southvvestvvard betvveen tvvo parallel mountain ranges, vvith Karakuş Dağı to the north and Barladağ to the south. At Uluborlu vve come to the site of ancient Apollonia, knovvn in the Byzantine era as Sozopolis. The site has yielded large quantities of coins and numerous inseriplions, but no trace remains of the ancient city.
Tvventy-one kilometers beyond Uluborlu vve come to a T-junc-tion, vvhere vve turn right on Highvvay 650.Then after nineteen kilo¬meters vve turn left on Highvvay 650, vvhich after another fıvc kilo¬meters brings us to Dinar, a tovvn set.at an altitude of 880 meters.
Dinar is the ancient Apameia Cibotus, built by Antiochus I in the second quarter of the third century B.C. and named for his mother Apame.The city vvas built in the foothills of the moun¬tains above the east side of a rich plain on the borderland betvveen Pisidia and Phrygia, vvhere the headvvaters of the Maeander are joined by four other streams. it vvas founded near the aeropolis of an earlier settlement named Celaenae, vvhose people vvere relocated in Apameia by Antiochus. The city gave its name to the Treaty of Apameia, signed in 188 B.C, a year after the ballle of Magnesia ended the vvar betvveen the Seleucid king Antiochus III on one side and the Romans and their

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Rhodian and Pergamene allies on the other. According to the terms of the treaty, Antiochus gave up ali of his possessions in vvestern Asia Minör, with most of his former territory being awarded to Pergamum. After the fail of the Pergamene king-dom, Apameia was annexed by Rome in 129 B.c. Early in the follovving century it vvas destroyed in one of the earthquakes to vvhich the region is subject, after vvhich it vvas repaired by Mithridates VI of Pontus. After the fail of Mithridates, Apameia came under the control of Rome, and early in the Roman impe-rial era it became one of the most prosperous cities in Asia Minör. As Strabo vvriies in book XIII of his Geography: "Apameia is a great emporium of Asia, I mean Asia in the spe-cial meaning of that term |i.e., Asia Minör], and ranks second only to Ephesus, for it is a common entrepöt for the merchan-dise from both Italy and Greece."
Apameia vvas overrun in the Arab and Turkish invasions, vvhich together vvith the frequent earthquakes that it suffered utterly destroyed vvhat vvas left of the ancient city. Thus Dinar today has no historic monuments of note, vvith even its more recent buildings destroyed by a severe earthquake in 1995.
We leave Dinar on Highvvay 625, vvhich takes us southeast for thirty-tvvo kilometers to a junction, vvhere—on the left— Highvvay 625 heads off to İsparta and—on the right—Highvvay 650 leads to Burdur. We turn off onto Highvvay 650, vvhich after tvventy-four kilometers brings us around the eastern end of Burdur Gölü to the tovvn of Burdur.
Burdur is the ancient Arcania Limnae, vvhich acquired its pre- ' sent name early in the Turkish period. The traveler Ibn Battuta, vvho visited Burdur in the mid-fourteenth century, described it as "a small place vvith many orchards and streams, and a small fortress on a hilltop." Hamilton describes the tovvn, vvhich he calls Buldur, in his journal for 3 Octobcr 1836:

At half-past five vve were near Buldur, situated on the sloping sides of the hills vvhich rise up like an amphitheatre in a semicircular form, in advance of vvhich are several lovver hills covered vvith houses. The tovvn vvith the suburbs covers a large space of ground, as many of the houses have gardens attached to them.The vvhole presents a striking and picturesque appearance. Buldur is said to contain 5000 houses, of vvhich a considerable proportion are Greek. I visited the bazaars, vvhich are crovvded vvith a picturesque col-lection of molley groups from the neighbouring villages.
The oldest monument in the tovvn is the Ulu Cami, built by the Hamitoğlu emir, Dündar Bey, in the fourteenth century. The ear-liest Ottoman monument is the Bulgurlu Medrese, vvhich novv houses the archaeological museum.The museum has objects dat-ing from the Neolithic Age through the Byzantine period from archaeological sites in northern Pisidia, the most important being Hacılar. There are also a number of fine old Ottoman houses in Burdur that have been restored and are öpen to the public.
We novv make an excursion southvvestvvard on Highvvay 330, vvhich at first takes us along the southern shore of Burdur Gölü. Knovvn in antiquity as Lake Ascania, Burdur Gölü is the fourlh largest of the Pisidian lakes. it measures thirty-tvvo kilometers southvvest to northeast and a maximum of eight kilometers in vvidth, its surface being at an elevation of 845 meters.
The road veers inland before reaching the southvvest end of the lake. Then, tvventy-five kilometers from Burdur, it brings us to Hacılar, a village about 1,500 meters from the archaeological site to vvhich it has given its name.
The archaeological site of Hacılar vvas excavated in the years 1957-60 by James Mellaart for the British Institute of Archaeology in Ankara. Mellaart unearthed nine levels of human occupation, the lovvest and earliest dating from the seventh mil-lennium B.c. in vvhich houses made of mud brick vvere found. Some of the finds from Hacılar are exhibited in the Burdur museum and in the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations in Ankara, the most striking being the statuettes of the Anatolian mother goddess, the oldest of vvhich vvere found here.

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We novv retrace our route to Burdur, after vvhich we head southeast on Highvvay 650. This takes us över the Çelikçi Pass at an altitude of 1,226 meters, after vvhich the road descends steeply until it veers eastvvard to approach its junction vvith Highvvay 685, thirty kilometers from Burdur. At the junction vve head south on Highvvay 650, vvhich takes us from the Pisidian highlands to the Pamphylian plain, vvhere vve end our itinerary in Antalya.