PAMPHYLIA AND PISIDIA

sel it down in ironi of him, and kept on his head anolher ornamental bonnet of silk or other material. in ıhe center of their hail was a son of platform placed there for visilors. When we took our place, they served up a greal banquet followed by fruits and svveelmeals, after which they began to sing and dance. We vvere filled vvith admiration and were greatly astonished at their openhandedness and generosity. We took leave of thcm at the close of the night and left thcm in their hospice.
Beaufort observed that the Greeks of Antalya spoke only Turkish, as vvas the case elsevvhere in Anatolia at that time. Greek vvas stili used in the Iiturgy of the Greek Orthodox churches in Antalya, though ncither the pricsts nor their congre-gation understood that language, as Beaufort observes in his Karamania:
The population of Adalia probably does not exceed 8000, two-thirds of vvhich I undeutand to be Mohammedan, the other third Greek.These Greeks are acquaintcd »itli no other language tlıaıı Turkish. but though some of their prayers are translated into that language, ıhe principal part of their Iiturgy continues to be repcated in Greek by the Papas, or priests, of vvhom ıhe greater number are as ignorant of the meaning, as their congregalion.
The oldest part of Antalya is the quarter around the port, vvhose monuments inelude struetures from the Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk, and Ottoman pcriods, as vvell as a number of picturesque old Turkish houses, some of vvhich have been vvell restored in recenl years. Around the port quarler there are stili some stretehes of the ancient defense vvalls and tovvers. These fortifications vvere originally built in the Hellenistic period, though most of vvhat novv survives is Roman, along vvith consid-erable parts dating from a reconstruction by Manuel 1 Comnenus (r. 1143-80). Beaufort \vrites of the ancient vvalls in his Karamania, vvhere he refers to the lovvn as Adalia:
Adalia is beautifully situated around a small harbour; the streets appear to rise behind each other like ıhe seats of a theatre; and on the level summit of the hill, the city is enelosed by a diteh, a double vvall, and a scries of square tovvers about fıfty yards asunder. Wc cndeavoured lo obtain permission to pass along the insides of

NORTH FROM ANTALYA 7
the vvalls, and to examine them and the tovvers; bul Ihe Bey reminded us of the rigid lavvs of the empire on thai subjecl, and vvithout absolutely refusing, put it to my feelings vvhether, circumstanced as he vvas vvith regard to the I'orte, I vvould urgc him to do, vvhat his enemies vvould not fail to distort into a grave offence. There vvas no ansvvering this appeal,and vve contented ourselves vvith an extemal vievv.
The course of the ancient city vvalls is follovved by the tvvo main avenues of dovvntovvn Antalya, vvith Cumhuriyet Caddesi bounding the old quarter on the northvvest and Atatürk Caddesi on the northeast. Near the northern end of Cumhuriyet Caddesi, just before it intersects Atatürk Caddesi, vve see the elock tovver, a landmark at the city center. The quarter around the tovver is called the Kale Kapısı, "the Castle Gate," named for one of the long-vanished gatevvays in the ancient vvalls of Antalya. The mosque to the right of the elock tovver is the eighteenth-century Tekeli Mehmet Paşa Camii.
Gale of Hadrian. AnUüyu
The best-preserved streteh of the ancient vvalls is along Atatürk Caddesi, vvhich runs soııtheast from its intersection vvith Cumhuriyet Caddesi and then curves around to the cliffs south of the port. A short vvay along the avenue vve see the Gate of , a monumental propylon (gatevvay) built to celebrate the emperor's vpsit to Attaleia in A.D. 130. The gatevvay, flanked by tvvo huge tovvers of the original Hellenistic vvalls, consists of three coffered arches of equal size, vvith four Corinthian columns standing on detached pedestals in front of the piers that support the arches.
At the seavvard end of Atatürk Caddesi there is another impressive monument of Roman Attaleia—the eolossal tovver knovvn as the Hıdırlık Kulesi. This massive structure, vvhich probably dates from the second century A.D., consists of a square base supporting a round tovver, vvith a poorly built parapet that seems to have been added in the Byzantine era. The tovver resembles the Castel San'Angelo, Hadrian's mausoleum in Rome, and it is believed to have been built as a sepulcher for a local Roman notable.
The most prominent monument in Antalya is the Yivli Minare Camii, "the Mosque vvith the Fluted Minaret," vvhich stands belovv the south side of Cumhuriyet Caddesi some 300 meters from the elock tovver. The fluted shaft of this striking minaret is built of pink-red bricks into vvhich have been set small pieces of blue-green Seljuk tiles. The minaret vvas ereeted by the Seljuk sultan Alaettin Keykubat I (r. 1219-36) in 1219. Originally the minaret vvas attoched to a mosque that had been a Byzantine church before the Seljuk capture of Attaleia in 1207. This edifice vvas replaced in 1373 by the present mosque, vvhich vvas founded by Mehmet Bey, emir of the Hamitoğlu beylik. The interior is covered by three pairs of domes supported by tvvelve columns in three rovvs of four each, some of them surmounted by ancient Ionic and Corinthian capitals. Mehmet Bey also ereeted the türbe (tomb) that stands in the courtyard above the mosque, a distinetive structure vvith a pyramidal roof. This vvas built in 1377 as a sepulcher for Mehmet Bey's eldest son, vvho died before he could succeed his father as emir.The other building in the upper courtyard is an eighteenth-century tekke, or dervish lodgc, used by the Mcvlevis—the famous vvhirling dervishes.

Directly aeross the courtyard from the mosque there are the ruins of tvvo Seljuk medresen, or theological sehools. The isolated portal to the right is ali that remains of the medrese built in 1239 by Sultan Gıyasettin Keyhüsrev II (r. 1236-46). On the other side are the more substantial remains of the medrese founded ca. 1220 by Gıyasettin's father, Alaettin Keykubat I.
Along the vvinding streets in the upper part of the old quarter inside the vvalls there are a number of interesting monuments. One of these is the Karatay Medresesi, founded in 1250 by the vizier Celalettin Karatay, one of the great builders in Seljuk his-tory. Another is the Kesik Minare Camii, "the Mosque vvith the Truncated Minaret." This vvas originally a church dedicated to the Virgin, converted to a mosque after the Seljuk capture of Attaleia. This once-splendid basilica, novv an utter ruin, vvas built in the fıfth century, serving as the cathedral of Byzantine Attaleia until the city fell to the Seljuks.

Hıdırlık Kulesi, Antalya
The Antalya Archaeological Museum is some tvvo kilometers vvest of the tovvn center, approached by dri ving out along Kenan Evren Bulvarı just beyond thejunclion vvith Piri Reis Caddesi. This is one of the most interesting and attractive of ali Ihe local museums in Turkey. it has exhibits from the enlire speetrum of civilizations in southvvestern Turkey, ineluding Pamphylia, Lycia, and Pisidia.The oldest objccts are from the Karain Cave, a Palaeolithic site on the upper tier of the Pamphylian plain. The thirteen rooms in the museum cover the whole range of the area's archaeological past: Palaeolithic, Chalcolithic, Neolithic, Bronze, Iron, Geometric, Archaic, Classical, Hellenistic, Roman, Seljuk, Beylik, and Ottoman. Three rooms are devoted to the ethnological colleetion, vvhich has fascinating exhibits associated vvith the local Yuruks, or nomads.
Our itinerary vvill now take us north from Antalya into Pisidia, the region vvifhin the Taurus Mountains north of the Pamphylian plain. We begin by driving inland on Highvvay 650, the road to Burdur; then after eleven kilometers \ve turn left on Highvvay 350, the road to Korkuteli.
Some seven kilometers along Highvvay 350 vve make a detour lo the right for the Evdir Hanı, a Seljuk caravanserai built by Sultan İzzettin Keykavus I (r. 1210-19), son of Gıyasettin Keyhüsrev I, the conqueror of Attaleia. During the thirteenth century the Seljuks built scores of these caravanserais along the roads of Anatolia as hostels for merehants, greatly stimulating the commerce of the subeontinent. About fifty of these hand-some buildings are stili standing, though almost ali have fallen into ruin; nevertheless-they continue to be impressive land-marks on the othervvise stark and featureless landscapc of cen-tral Anatolia. The Evdir Hanı remained in use almost to the end of the Ottoman era, though by then it had seen better days. This is cvident from the account of Spralt and Forbes in their Travels in Lycia, Milyas and the Cybaritis, published in 1847:
The entrance lo the khan is a magnificeni gatevvay of Saracenic arehitec-lure, highly ornamented. and in part ccmstructed of white marble. The mar-

12

PAMPHYLIA AND PISIDIA I

NORTH FROM ANTALYA 13



ble slabs bore inscriptions, probably sentences from the koran. Within is a greaı couri, surrounded by lofty, vaulted cloisters, now partly in ruins; here we lodged, lighting our fire under the arches, and picketing our horses in the quadranglc. The lodging vvas snug cnough, bul had the disadvantage of having been the camp of a mighty army of fleas, vvho forthvviıh, regarding us as natural enemies, proceeded to the attack; and although each of the party literally slevv hundreds, did not seem in the least diminished by the morning. During ıhe night they made incessant efforts to destroy us, and vve arose in a very uncomfortable state and much wounded.
Betvveen the caravanserai and the main road there are the scattered ruins of an ancient city of unknown name. Spratt and Forbes seem to have been the first foreign travelers to report on the site, vvhich they examined in 1842 after their flea-tormented night in the Evdir Hant:
The ruins of the city surrounding the khan appear to be of later date, and are constructed of smali stones vvith mortar. There are several early churches and numerous sarcophagi, which are ranged in double rovvs at the sides of the ancient approaches, forming sacred ways. in the centre are the ruins of a handsome mausoleum. Many of the sarcophagi are inscribed, but although vve examined nearly ali, none of those vvhich are legible presented the name of the city. Nearly ali the inscriptions conclude vvith notice that the fine imposed for violating the tomb should be paid to the gods of Solymi. The most singular feature of the ruins are aqueducts, vvhich intersect the city in ali directions, and are formed from solid vvalls from eight to ten feet high.ThesealI leadoff from a largerand principal duct.that must havecon-veyed a considerable quantity of vvater, judging from the breadth of the channel.
A large number of the sarcophagi menlioned by Spratt and Forbes have survived, most of them half-buried and broken. in the southern part of the site there is a heap of ruins that vvas önce a smali temple, of vvhich there remain huge blocks of its richly sculptured archilrave, as vvell as parts of its coffered ceiling and spirally fluted columns. Also in its vicinity there are tvvo curious sculptural fragments represenling a male figüre mounted on vvhat appears to be a seahorse. George Bcan suggests that the name of the tovvn vvas Anydrus, "Waterless," a place mcntioned in the inscriptions of Termessos, a likely identification in vievv of the numerous vvater channels that it vvas necessary lo create here.
Returning to Highvvay 350, vve continue on for fıve kilometers until vve come to the main entrance of the Termessos National Park, a beautiful vvooded area on the slopes of Güllük Dağı, "the Rosc-Garden Mountain." From the entrance it is a drive of nine kilometers up to the car park belovv the site of ancient Termessos. En route vve pass some of the oullying ruins of the city, fırst a vvatchtovver; then some stretehes of a road knovvn as the King's Way, laid dovvn in the second century A.D.; and finally the base of a ceremonial gatevvay vvhere one enlered the lovver environs of the city. This brings us to the car park, vvhence a steep path leads up to the main site of the city.
Termessos is perehed on a subsidiary summit of the tvvin-peakcd Güllük Dağı, the ancient Mt. Solymus, vvhich rises to an elevation of 1,216 meters abovc sea level. The ancient city is set in a Iandscape of vvild beauty on the summit, its ruins com-pletely overgrovvn vvith trees, thickets, and shrubbery, the tombs and sarcophagi of its necropolis tumbled dovvn the slope of the mountainside in vvild disorder.
Although Termessos is often ineluded vvithin Lycia, it is aetu-ally in Pisidia. The people of Termessos alvvays referred to themselves as Solymoi, the vvarrior race vvho lived in these mountains beforc the coming of the Lycians. Homer, in telling the story of Bellerophon in book VI of The /Had, calls them "the glorious Solymoi."
The first historical reference to Termessos appears in 333 B.C., vvhen Alexander made an unsuccessful attempt to capture the city. Arrian deseribes the site of Termessos in his account of Alexander's campaigns, vvhere he mistakenly refers to the city as Telmissus:
The people of Telmissus are an Asiatic race of Pisidian blood; the tovvn stands on a lofty and precipitous height, and the road vvhich leads past it is

14
PAMPHYLIA AND PISIDIA 1
an inconvcııient one. because a ridge runs right down to it from Iho toun above, breaking off short with the road at the boltom, vvhile opposite it, on (hc other side, the ground rises again in an equally steep ascent. The tvvo cliffs make a natural gatcway on the road, so that quite a small force can, by holding the high ground, prevent an enemy from marching through. And this is prccisely vvhat the Telmissians did: they marched out vvith every availablc man anıl oecupied the heights on either side of the road. Alexander, accordingly, gave the order lo halt at önce, convinced that when the enemy savv his men taking up a position for the night they would no longer hold the road in force but withdraw the majority of their tfoops into the tan near by. leaving only a small party on the hills to keep a vvateh-His guess proved right; the main body retired, and only the outposts remained. Alexander then promptly moved to the attack with a force con-sisting of the arehers, the javclin battalions. and the ınore mobile infantry. The small force on the hills, unable to vvithstand the force of his missiles, abandoned the position, and Alexander moved on through the narrovv pas-sage and took up a fresh position near the town.
Alexander eventually abandoned his attempt to capture Termessos, realizing that it vvould not be possible to reduce it without a long siege. And so he broke off the siege and vvent on to attack the other cities of Pisidia, some of vvhich, according to Arrian, "he took by storm, |while) others surrendered to him without resistance."
Fourteen years later the city vvas attacked by Anligonus, one of the Diadochi, the generals of Ale.tander vvho divided up his empire after his death in 323 B.c. At the time Termessos vvas being held by another of AIexander's former generals named Alcetas, vvho vvas supportcd by the younger citizens of the city. The elders of Termessos, unvvilling to facc a siege, sent vvord to the enemy camp that they vvould seize Alcetas and turn him över dead or alive to Antigonus. Alcetas learned of this plot only after his supporters had been dravvn avvay from Termessos by a ruse, and vvhen the city elders attempted to take hold of him he committed suicide rather than surrender. The elders thereupon sent his body to Antigonus, vvho vvas frustrated in his attempt to take Termessos vvhen the supporters of Alcetas relurned and took control of the city. Antigonus then placcd the body of

NORTH FROM ANTALYA 15
Alcetas in a prominent spot vvhere it could be seen from the vvalls of Termessos, and for three days he subjected the corpse to unspeakable indignities, attempting to provoke the defenders into making a foray outside the city. When there vvas no response after three days Antigonus gave up in frustration and marched his army avvay, after vvhich the supporters of Alcetas took the mangled body of their dead leader and buried it vvith great honors, aftervvards ereeting a splendid memorial över his grave.
A short vvay to the right of the car park vve see a ceremonial gatevvay knovvn as the Propylon of Hadrian. The propylon marked the entrance to the temenos (sacred precinet) of a temple, novv in ruins, and presumably dedicated to Hadrian (r. 117-38). The remains indicate that this vvas an Ionic peripteral temple vvith a cella 8 meters in vvidth, of vvhich the principal remnant is the doorvvay vvith its finely carved lintel, surrounded by numerous architectural fragments.
The path to the summit follovvs much the samc course as the uppermost streteh of the King's Way. This takes us through the inner defense vvall, vvhere vve see the remains of a gatevvay and a vvatchtovver. The inner east vvall of the gatevvay bears an inseription that George Bean has interpreted as the beginning of a "dice oracle," one of many such examples in Asia Minör. The dice used vvere knovvn as astragal i. They vvere the neck bones of a sheep or other animal, vvhich could land vvith one of four sides facing up, each of vvhich vvas given a numerical value. Usually five astragali vvere throvvn, giving a set of five numbers. Each of the resulting fıve-digit numbers corresponded to a pronounce-ment of the oracle in verse, almost alvvays a response to a ques-tion put by the pilgrim at the shrine. As Bean vvrites about these oracular verses: 'There is a remarkable sameness about the responses, and it seems that the elient vvas expected to ask only about the advisability of some course of action; the god's advicc is in effect confined to tvvo alternatives: 'Go ahead,' or 'Wait.' The elient might save himself trouble by flipping a coin."

NORTH FROM ANTALYA 17
Continuing upvvard along the path, \ve now ascend a flight of steps and pass through the inner fortifıcation wall, an impressive structure that in part is standing to its ful I height. Here vve see on our left the extensive ruins of a gymnasium, unexcavated and completely overgrovvn. On our right are the remains of a long street önce bordered on both sides by colonnaded stoas lined \vith shops, vvith statues betvveen the columns and sometimes in front of them as vvell, forty-seven sculptures in ali. Only the bases of the statues have survived, more than half of them honoring victors in the games.almost exclusively vvrestlers, the others commemorating priests, magistrates and other officials. After vve pass the colonnaded street, the path divides, and vve take the left fork to approach the city center.
This brings us to the agora, vvhich is in total ruins and com¬pletely overgrovvn. The agora is bordered on its northvvest side by a tvvo-storied Doric stoa vvhich bears an inscription record-ing that it vvas dedicated by Attalus II of Pergamum. Attalus probably dedicated the stoa as an act of gratitude to the Termessians for having fought as his allies during the siege of the Pisidian city of Selge, long an enemy of Termessos. Beneath this side of the agora there are five deep cisterns, to vvhich vvater vvas conducted by an aqueduct. On the northeast side of the agora there vvas a similar stoa erected in the Roman era by a vvealthy citizen of Termessos named Osbaras. At the southvvest corner of the agora a large outcropping of rock has been carved into a heroon, the tomb and shrine of a deified hero. Three niches on the vvest side of the rock vvere presumably receptacles for dedicatory offerings to the hero.
Beyond the agora to the vvest is the vvell-preserved theater, standing on a spectacular site facing vvest across the inlervening valley tovvard the tvvin peaks of Mt. Solymus. The structure dates from the Hellenistic period, and though rebuilt in the Roman era, it retains its original Greek plan—the cavea (area vvhere the theatergoers sat) forming more than a semicircle. The

18 PAMPHYLIA AND PISIDIA I

NORTH FROM ANTALYA

19




Theater, Termessos
t\vo paradoi that scparate the cavea ffom the stage building vvere originally öpen, in the Greek style, but in the Roman imperial era the southern one vvas replaced by a covered passagevvay when the auditorium vvas expanded on that side. The stage building, vvhich in its present form seems to date from the late second century A.D., comprises only the stage and a long and narrovv room behind it. The auditorium has one diazoma (the passage that divided the lower from the upper rows of seals), vvith sixteen rovvs of seats belovv and eight above, giving an estimaled capacity of 4,200 spectators.The main entrance to the auditorium is by an arched doorvvay in the middle of the rear vvall, from vvhcre a broad stairvvay leads do\vn to the diazoma. The keystonc in the arch of the doorvvay supported a statue of the youthful Heracles, dedicated by the city.
South of the theater there is an unusually vvell-preserved building, its vvalls in some placcs standing to a height of almost 10 meters.This has bcen identified as an odeion, or conçert hail, although il ma\ also havc served as the bouleuterion.or council

house.The building dates from the Hcllcnistic period,and com-bines both Doric and Ionic elements in its design, most notably in the pilasters in the upper parts of ils outer face.
Just to the west of the odeion are the remains of a beautifully constructed temple comprising only a cella, measuring 6.1 by 7.36 meters, its vvalls stili standing to a height of 4 meters. The Austrian archaeologists vvho excavated this temple bel i eve that it vvas dedicated to Zeus Solymeus, the patron deity of Termessos.
There are the remains of another temple just to the south of the odeion. This is a vvell-preserved prostyle temple (one vvith a pronaos, or front porch), ils square cella measuring 5.5 meters on each side. The temple vvas dedicated to Artemis, as noted in an inseription on the lintel of the perfectly preserved door. The inseription also records that the temple and its cult statue of Artemis vvere endovved by Aurelia Armasta, vvith the help of her husband, and that the decoration and si\ silver images ol the goddess vvere paid for by her mother. The temple has been dated to the first half of the third century A.D.
Southeast of this edifice there are the foundations of an ear-lier temple of Artemis. The architectural fragments indicate that this vvas a peripteral Doric hexastyle temple vvith six columns at the ends and eleven on the sides, dating from the mid-second century A.D. One of the reliefs vvith vvhich the temple vvas decorated shovvs Artemis in the sacrificial scene from Iphigenia in Aulis, the tragedy by Euripides.
There is another temple just to the south of this earlier sanc-tuary of Artemis. This is a templum-in-antis vvith Corinthian columns, its cella measureş 6.9 by 5.78 meters and stands on a highpodium. Architectural fragments indicate that the temple dates from the late Roman period, but there is no evidence to identify the deity to vvhom it vvas dedicated.
There are tvvo more temples to the vvest of the city center, south and southeast of the Stoa of Attalus. Thcy are proslyle

20 PAMPHYLIA AND PISIDIA 1
temples \vith Corinthian columns.oneof \vhich measures 10.85 by 9.5 meters and the other 7.2 by 6.75 meters. They have becn datcd to (he Roman imperial era, but here again there is no evi-dence to identify the deities to vvhom they \vere dedicated.
South of the t\vo temples, to the southvvest of the City center, stands a vvell-preserved structure known as the Founder's House. This \vas a Roman mansion built around an unroofed atrium, in the middle of \vhich there vvas a sunken impluvium, a basin for collecting rainvvater. Stili standing at a height of 6 meters, the splendid cntryvvay of the mansion is Doric. The house takes its name from an inscription on the left jamb of the door, vvhich records that the o\vner \vas a "founder of the city," undoubtedly referring to his civic benefactions in Termessos.
«<,•„„,,„,,„>„, ll/C„ri>m,n Tanrl, ■» Termessos. İW», „y Nlfmm
Termessos is surrounded on ali sides except the east by its vast necropolis, vvith mausolea, sarcophagi, and rock-he\vn tombs in the Lycian style covering the slopes of the mountain-side. The most interesting is a rock-hewn tomb at the base of the cliff on the vvestern side of the sile. The tomb has bcen broken

NORTH FROM ANTALYA 21
'jp^
Sanopha^i in Nonnyolis at Termessos
■ -
öpen by grave robbers, vvho smashed the sarcophagus in the burial chamber, but the reliefs on its exterior have survivcd, altlıough badly damaged. The finest of the reliefs shovvs a mounted vvarrior in armor vvith his right hand raised as he pre-pares to throvv a spear; belovv are carvings of a crested helmet, a pair of greaves, a round shield, and a svvord. The style of the relicf dates it to the late fourth ccntury B.C, \vhich suggests that this is the tomb of Alcetas, erected by his follovvers after he killed himself.
After leaving Termessos vve retrace our route to the junction of Highvvays 350 and 650. There vve turn to head north on Highvvay 650, vvhich takes us up from the Pamphylian plain inlo the highlands of Pisidia vvithin the Taurus. A short \vay beyond the junction vve turn left on a road signposted for the Karain Cave, a drive of about eight kilometers north on a route parallel to Highvvay 650.
The Karain Cave vvas first excavated by Turkish archaeolo-gists during the ycars 1946-73. Their fınds, novv exhibitcd in


22

PAMPHYLIA AND PISIDIA !
Rock-hewıı Tomhs in Ilır Neçmptılte tıl Trrıııes.uu

NORTH FROM ANTALYA 23
the Antalya Museum and in the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations in Ankara, show that the cave \vas inhabited throughout the Palaeolithic period (30,000-8000 B.C.). The finds include tools and vveapons of both stone and bone along vvith other artifacts.The stone objects include hand-axes, scrapers, and arrovvheads, \vhile among those of bone are avvls, needles, and ornaments. Human remains include teeth and bone frag-mcnts of both Homo sapiens and Neanderthal man, the largest being part of a child's skull. The excavation vvas resumed in 1985, the most important nevv find to date being a cult site near the entrance to the cave.
We retrace our route to Highvvay 650 and continue driving north. As vve do so we see a sign on the right indicating a stretch t of the ancient road from Pamphylia to Pisidia, \vhich passed through the Döşemealtı Gorge at this point. A milestone bearing the date A.D. 6 records that this vvas the Via Sebaste, which led from the Mediterranean coast to Antiocheia in Pisidia. At the foot of the gorge there are the remains of a fortress, a hostel, and a bath, ali of the impcrial Roman era. There is also a five-kilo-meter stretch of the Byzantıne stepped track, known as the cli-max,or ladder, which vvas used by pedestrians and pack animals making their vvay through the gorge. At the upper end of the track are the ruins of an ancient settlement, including a gatevvay, a Hellenistic watchtower, houses, tombs, and severaf Byzantıne churches.
Above the Döşemealtı Gorge the road makes a long bend to the vvest beforc heading northvvard önce again. Near the begin-ning of the bend vve see on our right a Seljuk caravanscrai knovvn as the Kırkgöz Hanı. This vvas built during the reign of Gıyasettin Keyhüsrev II. Its overall dimensions are45.7 by 10.6 meters, vvith its cntryvvay on the south side leading into a court-yard vvith rooms on either side and the main hail on the north side divided into six vaultcd chambers.